Which tile adhesive do I need?

Three facts settle it: the tile, the location and the substrate. The difference between a floor that lasts and one that lifts after a season is almost entirely in those three — not in the brand, and not in the price.

1What kind of tile?
2Where is it going?
3What are you fixing onto?

Pick all three to see the result — or read the full table below.

The full table — required class for every case

On sound cement render. Other substrates — smooth concrete, existing tile, gypsum, timber — add a preparation step before fixing and do not change the required class, except for timber.

Tile Interior, dryBathroom or kitchenBalcony or exterior floorExterior facadePool or water tankUnderfloor heating
Standard ceramic C1T C2TE C2TE C2TE S1 C2TE S1 C2TE S1
Porcelain C2TE C2TE C2TE C2TE S1 C2TE S1 C2TE S1
Large format (60x60 and up) C2TE C2TE C2TE C2TE S1 C2TE S1 C2TE S1
Marble or light natural stone C2TE C2TE C2TE C2TE S1 C2TE S1 C2TE S1
Mosaic C1T C2TE C2TE C2TE S1 C2TE S1 C2TE S1

Why these three decide it

The tile decides the bonding mechanism. A tile that absorbs water lets a standard adhesive set against it; porcelain, absorbing under 0.5%, draws in nothing and needs a polymer that grips by adhesion rather than suction.

The location decides the stress: water, heat and movement. A facade expands and contracts every day, underfloor heating with every cycle, a pool is permanently submerged — each demands deformability the standard class does not provide.

The substrate rarely changes the class, but it adds the preparation step without which the best adhesive still fails: smooth concrete needs a rough contact primer, a friable surface needs a penetrating one, and existing tile needs checking for voids before anything else.